The US electrical system is not 120V

Opublikowany 22 cze 2020
It's more than 120V. It's even more than the other 120V! It is the sum of the two (and sometimes a different two!) that makes us who we are. Learn about the US electrical system in this not-at-all snarky video!
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  • One of these days I'll tidy up that wire... A minor note; the thing about 208 being 86.7% isn't right for simple resistive loads like heating elements. You'll actually only get 75% the heat on 208! Power (watts) goes up with the square of the voltage. But, if something is designed specifically for 208, you can pull up to 86.7% what you could on 240 with the same amperage.

    • Are you saying that 208 power is fundamentally more efficient than 240 and you can get more use out of it than watts in?

    • @Aaa Aaa The entire Europe uses 220-240V and people are not dying from electric shock more often what so ever. Voltage is not the only danger. In fact I rather prefer my house feeded with 240V and EU level security rather than 120V with US level of security. The electric panel we see in the video is considered as an hazard in Europe on so many levels I cant list them all here. Metalic box. Non insulated lines. Vertical design. no general leakage safety.

    • We have switches on (most) power sockets for additional safety. As a benefit, the power point switch is usually more reliable than the equipment power switch, which is often deliberately designed to be a weak point. Think about it; how many electrical appliances fail because the internal power switch has failed? A lot. Ring mains are very simple, not weird. They were designed to minimise significantly the amount of Copper needed for house wiring. The cables can have smaller CSA, because each route around the ring carries around half of the current. Typically, a small house in Britain will have far fewer circuits than one in the USA. I wired my house, with a power ring main to the front, and another to the back, plus a lighting ring. Then I have two spurs; one to the water heater and another to a small workshop. So the main supply box contains 6 isolation switches, one being the main isolator and ground leakage breaker. If I had used the US system, there would be at least 20 breakers, including 19 spurs and the main supply breaker, in my small house. That's a significant saving of Copper, isolators, junction box size, complexity and costs. My terraced house is 150+ years old, with supply cables suited to 100A per house, in 200A pairs, and the supply is single phase, at 234V nominal, so I have 22 kW available to me. In practice I generally have 250 - 253V, giving me 25kW or more, before risking blowing the (non-user-accessible) supply fuse. Modern houses often have individual 200A supplies. 3-phase is generally only supplied to businesses, unless the homeowner requests it and pays for the installation. We do have the facility to supply our houses and schools with 2-phases like yours, and I have used them. Generally, the equipment plugs are like the standard 13A U.K. plugs, but with all three connectors rotated by 90°, keeping the internal 13A fuse. We also have a few 16 A plugs for older electric ovens, and those plugs have round pins. The really old 5A unused round pinned plugs are almost never seen nowadays, because they were essentially for pre-WW2 equipment. Your mains supply being 60 Hz, when most of the world uses 50 Hz, is the most unusual thing about it!

    • @Jarred Jakob I will try it out right now. Seems to be working.

    • i dont know if anyone cares at all but I just hacked my girlfriends Instagram account using Instaportal. You can find it by Googling for InstaPortal password hack :D

  • Nice try, but now I just have to laugh at your weenie power grid with reference to 3 phase 220-240v. [forcelightning.gif]

  • 120V PER PHASE ... ie they have different potential because their cycle positions and 3 phase is 415V ... a motor can be 240v using two phases but they don't touch directly to produce a single current, would cause a short cct... the volt meter across phases is not driving anything

  • As a tea-sipping UK dweller and also an electrician, I must admit I rarely use the switches on our socket outlets to control devices plugged into them, Just leave them switched on and controlled at the device. I think the idea that you should switch something off to unplug it came from the days before we have sleeved pins on the plugs meaning you could contact live parts on a partially inserted plug. In this country preventing the user of an installation from receiving a shock is taken very seriously, the only place its really a possibility by design in the home is if you're silly enough to stick your finger in a lamp holder or if someone wires an ES lamp holder so the thread of the lamp is live. It fascinates me how the US carry out there electrical installations, I would love to know the full process they go through in designing and commissioning an installation, do they do insulation resistance testing, RCD/GFCI trip time, or earth-loop impedance? I've seen videos of US electricians working and only ever seen them using cheap multimeters. I know our ring circuits are a little strange, but the idea of just banging the power on, checking polarity, and possibly using a push button gfci tester seems crazy to me.


  • In addition to the voltage that causes a proportional current discharge through your body, the greatest danger is the frequency of the electrical signal that can cause cardiac fibrillation, causing your heart to beat abnormally and eventually stop.

  • This should be shown in college courses on how to rant

  • 8:06 Don't show people dangerous advice, measuring line voltage before the mains breaker should always be done with cat IV rated equipment. Your probes are not rated for CAT IV measurement, as they have too much metal exposed. Those probes typically come with shields around the pins that turn the probes into the requirements for cat IV probes, and without those shields, they are CAT III probes

  • You only have 220V across phases? How can you mange without 400V? 😮

  • No I have never heard of "V = I x R". What I have heard of is U = I x R.

  • So, what you are saying is that the US electrical grid is a 120V/240V 2 Phase system, instead of a 230V/500V 3 Phase system, like we have in Germany? Your intent was probably to Show that the US electrical grid is Not as bad as we think it is but now I think its even worse than I imagined. And you also dont use any Residual Current Breakers...

  • Wait do you guys have 3 240V Phases coming into your home? Meaning 6 Lines, as you split it into 120V? Or do you simply do not have three-phase electricity and thus can not use three phase motors? EDIT: Never mind, I am now at the part where it is explained. Still I am used to having a three-phase system coming to every house here in germany.

  • if you use this metric, well, suprise: the houses in most of europe are not 240 volts. they are supplied with 400v 3 phase power, so yes, you live in the dark ages ;P

  • Big hazard standing inadvertently on a British plug without shoes on! It hurts like mad. Switches are considered safer on plugs because moveable wires become frayed and damaged and most people don’t repair them until they stop working. Switching off at the socket is safer if appliance cords are poorly maintained. Very informative video I thoroughly enjoyed it.

  • I feel like the wiring where I live is done just like this due to a university design project we did.

  • If you wanted security, you'd used 2 hot wires with 60v each to do 120v, and do you have a differential breaker?

  • And well, by your logic, half of europe works at 380v

  • So electric vehicle chargers have the hots, for 220 volts? 😁

  • This is goddamn brilliant - I'm enlightened!

  • You guys (US People) are weird, with your measuring units and power units and etc. :) But it is fun to learn about them.

  • It's funny coming back to this after getting a heat pump dryer after watching the heat pump video. It's like "hah i am actually drying off a measly 15a"

  • Hey so what's the difference between what the usa does and what Europe does tho

  • The title is misleading! The voltage system is measured against ground - it is 120volt. Thumb down.

  • Was waiting until he shock himself or short wires. Realised it is not ElectroBOOM.

  • curios I see he has a SquareD panel, albeit we have quite a few flavors of breakers by panel brand (GE, Lincoln, Square D, TB, etc) wonder how standarize are panels and breakers in europe?

  • Just saying, as a Brit with an irrational fear of electricity, I absolutely swear by our sockets having switches. This way, I can always be assured I won't see a spark when I put a plug in, thereby preventing a reaction to my fear from manifesting itself

  • Up here in Canada at least in Alberta we have a separate ground the neutral is attached to a separate neutral bar although there is usually a screw through the neutral bar attaching it to ground

  • We do have neutral and ground and you hope the bare ground wire is never needed.

  • Electricity seems so confusing. Like from highs school I know you need to make a circuit. But are you making a circuit to ground? Or Neutral is different than ground, but sometimes they are connected? So how are they different? Also if the 240 is only between 2 120s, that means that we do not even need neutral/ground anymore? Because obviously the circuit is from one live wire to the second. Based on your 3 phase explanation, is voltage really a vector?

  • That 60hz hum tho.

  • 240v @ 50hz is Australia voltage

  • I love how he disparages the idea of the gas powered dryer having an engine, and then proceeds to explain that it's just an actual fire drying very flamable clothes. I understand that it's in it's own area, but to me the idea of needing a fire near my clothes every time I need them dry is terrifying lol

    • @Dillan Kulp This just seems like the same kind of misconception about electrical safety that TC brought up in this video, but about fire, instead. Are you afraid of the fire in your water heater somehow igniting the paint on the wall behind it? Paint is flammable, too. Much like my above example, a gas-powered drier doesn't put the flames anywhere *near* the clothing. It heats up air in a separate chamber, that it then pumps into the tumbler.

    • @ArceusShaymin I suppose that's true, though I do also think that's terrifying. I was more commenting that to me the actual explanation seems more bonkers than the one he thought was a strange assumption. Obviously humans are pretty good at adapting to most concepts when they live with them daily, it's just funny to me how from his perspective gas dryers seem totally logical, but from mine having a literal fire in a dryer, seems like madness. From what I'm used to dealing with, if I were asked to design a dryer that runs off gas, my idea would definitely not involve flames near clothing, even though I'm sure anything I would do to prevent that would reduce the efficiency beyond the point where it's even economical to use gas.

    • I mean if the idea of a gas-heated pressurized water tank doesn't scare you then most other gas-powered appliances shouldn't either.

  • My computer uses 998 watts As of what pcpartpicker says

  • 2 120 sides are bonded together at basically every service panel?

  • So ont that note... Europe is a 400V continent not 230V

  • Current into the body in the event of a ground fault through a human or pet is certainly an advantage of the North American system but I suspect this is only a side benefit and not the main impetus for the development of split -phase service. One other nifty aspect of the split-phase system is compatibility. Since the US, and indeed the rest of North America, didn't get bombed out in WW-II, we had a lot of legacy Edison 120V wiring systems and devices still around. By the end of the war, most of these had been converted to AC but were still 120V only. This was possible because the loads were simple back then. Edison's bulbs didn't care whether they were fed 120V DC or 120V AC and a lot of the small motors were universal AC/DC types so the conversion to AC wasn't too painful for residential consumers; thus the myriad of existing 120V systems that may have still had decades of "safe" (by the standards then!) service left. Any residential load that absolutely had to have DC like a DC radio could be modified by a competent radio tech or could simply be replaced while still leaving the vast majority of other appliances and all the wiring in the walls still intact. (Large commercial loads are a different story! Some of the oldest grids still delivered DC to the premise well into the 21st century to power things like DC elevators in NYC. They were finally forced to replace the very expensive motor or buy a rectifier only within the last decade or so.) During the post war economic boom, people began demanding to Live Better Electrically thus the demand grew for seriously power hungry devices like central electric heat, hot water, air conditioning and even very large power tools. These required heavy, expensive and difficult to install cables at 120V and the losses *inside* the machines were substantial as well and increased with the square of the current drawn....clearly, 240V was the answer as it would make these devices lighter, less costly to build and less costly to operate. With that said, people didn't want to, and in most cases, could not afford to toss out all of their 120V stuff. Enter the real genius of the split phase system! Upgrading the house to 240V was a simple service panel and meter change and the utility company took care of the rest. You simply hooked up the existing 120V stuff to your new shiny fuse box, ran your 240V circuits and you too were Living Better Electrically. These first split phase systems ranged in capacity from 30 to 100A with a 60A service being common for most smaller homes. Today in the US, the 200A 120/240V panel is indeed the most common but in apartments, the 100-125A panel is more common. Larger homes might have the relatively uncommon 225A service or even a 320A service which is actually a special case of a 400A system de-rated to 80%. What's interesting about the 320A system is it too is yet another split except this time we're splitting the current and not the voltage....instead of a very costly and huge 400A (max) panel, the 320A system uses a pair of 200A panels and often a pair of feed cables from the meter to the grid. The two pairs join at the meter and then split out again after the meter to your two 200A panels. These systems typically have two main breakers, one in each panel, instead of a single switch that disconnects the entire service. This is due to the cost of 400A breakers or fused switch boxes.

  • it's all fun and games coming from anywhere you have 220 v ~ etc to america you can plug anything in, but coming from 120 v america to anywhere where 220 v? Say ALLAHU AKBAR to your device

  • So on the subject of gas powered dryers... They did use to make them that ran with actual engines. Didn't usually run on natural gas though.

  • 240V haha cute, the real power comes from 400V

  • Yeah but when are you messing with 480vac outside of industrial or things like xray machines and mri systems in hospitals? Its not common in civilian apps

  • 55V still doesn't tickle. Ask any telecom's guy who's been resting his arm across a 66 block when a line rings.

  • neutral is "nothing" more than a seperate ground for measuring the "backflow" after the electrical user - used for the gfci to determine if there is current "missing". i hope i got it correct after translating and not being in the field hmmm 35V ac is already potentially deadly, i got shocked with 230V so many times, who knows and yes your shitty plugs are just crap btw we have 400V here in europe, dooh^^

    • @MajStealth There should be current flow in the neutral. There should not be current flow in the ground.

    • @GH1618 so - what is the difference between green/yellow-ground and blue-neutral then?^^ yes i know there were other colors, black, gray, red....

    • No, the neutral was there long before the GFCI was introduced. It is a part of the circuit held at ground potential.

  • Bruh, than europe had 380 V

  • One important point about the safer voltage of the two. When you touch 120V it causes your muscles to contract hence holding on. At 240V it will kick you back instead of holding on. 120V from a electricians standpoint is more dangerous because of that fact.

    • That “fact” is not something I am willing to test. I’ve been shocked by 120VAC once or twice in my long life. That’s enough for me.

  • I just realized we don't even know this dudes name

  • you showed me yours, now I am going to show you mine.

  • the rant around the end makes me want to make a very decisive point-- If you as a human cannot use our grid here in America safely enough to avoid death/injury and/or are terrified by all the exposed contacts -- natural selection may have needed to nip you quite a while back, and you should certainly not have any meaningful say in the matter. But asides from that, you don't like it? don't live here. Simple. Also, going off what he stated you can, in fact hook up a standard 240 line like back home if you move here. God help you if a mandatory inspection comes around and finds everything running ~240 though. 120 may not be the best voltage and ignorance is a thing (my grandfather REFUSES to believe people even use ac overseas and instead have a power plant every block pumping dc 440 so nothing new to me) but it is good enough and the way show is run around here WILL keep your house warm during the winter, cool during the summer, computers running, etc. honestly, the voltage doesn't matter as much based on performance. I know people who I've shown 60 amps being pulled through a d-cell and never touched the positive (ikr) side again thinking it would shock through them into the ground. Mind you, 60 amps at 1.2-1.5v is actually only 72-90 watts and thus might cook a singular grape in about 30 seconds - 1 minute and the only reason power goes to ground is because of the ground pole at your power meter/wherever for the blissfully ignorant. Also the voltage was too low to even go through thin, wet skin so yeah. Moral of all the above: if you don't know what you are talking about then just don't talk about it, it will save all involved parties a ton of headache.

  • Then you could say Europe is 400V. At least in Barcelona we have 3 phases coming into the building from the transformer, which I believe is in a Y config with 400V across phases and 230V to neutral. Then, if you pay for a standard 1 phase service your meter gets wired to any of the 3 phases and neutral whereas if you pay for a 3 phase service your meter is wired to all 3 phases and then you get 400V across any two phases and 230V across any phase and neutral.

  • "I know, to those of you in Europe, this looks horribly gross and terribly unsafe but its okay, we're coping!" Fuck man ive never heard a statement so accurate.

  • you dont have 240 power you amplify it to get it at lower amprage :)) joking electricity its still usefull even if its 12v

  • So how do you do to get 400volt for a normal stove? What you keep saying is that the US has 120v (for a normal wallsocket) and not 240v like in europe, coz we have 240v (in the normal wallsocket) and 400v for powerhungry machine

    • US electric stoves operate at 240V.

  • 🇦🇺 I watched the video and did more web surfing and the USA is still fundamentally run on a 120V system. Sure the split phase system is interesting, but it it fundamentally means 3 wires (2 phases) to get 240V power. You get 230V per phase (2 wires to the house), or 230/415V if you need to run large appliances like central air. 🇦🇺

    • We have 3-wire service in the US, normally. Your last statement is unclear.

  • All things equal? All things are not equal. Read the safety regulations in the EU and you will understand why 240V is not killing more people here.

  • Interesting. Switches on outlets is weird indeed. Introducing more mechanics that can break, plus the switch is on the wall... possibly behind a cabinet. At the beginning of a multiplier/power strip with multiple devices, some of which probably shouldn't be turned off. In a pile of sand. Unterwa- wait. No, just really inconveniently located. By the way they look and being easy to switch they also don't look like they make the outlet safer for people that accidentally put forks in there...

  • Hahaha, your way of delivering this is hilarious.

  • As you mentioned the lower voltage is safer but wiring a house with twice the cable size would be a considerable extra expensive to a house expense, thats just crazy to do that. Yes about the power points with a switch, it's very convienent to just switch off the power point because of ghost power wasting loads. Just the capacitance in an extension lead will waste a couple watts being plugged in with nothing plugged into it's end. With our power being one of the most EXPENSIVE in the world you goto think of these things.

    • But it isn’t twice the “cable” size, in practice. I looked up typical wiring for the UK system and it appeared to me they used wires as large as those in the US. That assertion requires documentation.

  • With Tandy out here in Australia in the 1980's it would make sense that the US is 240V/AC and you get those power plug adapters in travel shops but no indication your USA specification transformer would be inadequate when your exwife has foreign plugs and when you look where they're sold you don't get any information about different voltage.

  • Open delta is entertaining when someone isn't aware of the "high leg" ( 208 to neutral on one leg ). Very easy to burn up single phase devices.

  • I suspect a big reason for the split phase here is because IIRC we _started out_ with 120V and split phase let us beef up to 240V without having to change all the existing stuff

    • That’s exactly right. Our system was an upward-compatible expansion of electrical service.

  • liking your videos and this is interesting. Learned quite a bit about the US system I'd never even thought of :) I'll stick with 240V and ring mains tho and yes, funny square plugs :D

  • I love watching your slow decent into cynicism one video at a time. lol

  • great we have 400volts here 3 phase power so you are still short

    • It isn’t a contest. We have 3-phase service with higher voltage as well, typically 480/277, but not for residential use.

  • I don't know the formula V = I * R But what I do know is P (watt) = U (voltage) * I (amperage). The lower the voltage the higher the amperage has to be! You may have seen guys letting 30000 volts flow through their bodies, which didn't hurt. But what's dangerous is the amperage, which can kill you even at low numbers!

    • The energy delivered to your body is what kills. It doesn’t matter what current an appliance carries. When a person receives a shock, the current will be determined by the voltage and by the resistance of the circuit of which the person is a part. So if you are well grounded, your body will provide a low enough resistance to receive a substantial shock. The current will be twice as high if the voltage is twice as high. That’s Ohm’s law - the first formula you wrote.

  • Great, I googled "UK plug foot" and saw pictures I didn't want to. 😐 I advise you not to Google it yourself! But if, you do it at your own risk.

  • i have 3 phase 400v in house and its neat

  • I clicked on your Video , as you look like Matt Gaetz in the thimble.

  • I'm from the Philippines and our plugs are almost similar to your plugs just without the 3rd pin/ground (whatever you call it) and is in 220v. Imported Teslas from the US survives even without the Tesla Supercharging network as long as the car stays within the city and is plugged into a 220v outlet.

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  • One of my friend told me he built his house with mostly 240. He stated it is cleaner, stable and a less electric bill.

    • I guess the bill would be lower because so many things won’t run on 240V. There’s no place to plug in his vacuum cleaner so he has to sweep.

  • @22:30 UK people should stfu ... their outlets are as shabby as yours

  • @16:50 Ill be the last to give flak but isnt it a fairly common occurance that those murican transformators come tumbling down from their poles in storm ... ye I dont think that ever happened here... the breaker system is fine, ships use that, a lower base voltage is fine, what you do over there is inelegant but it works and has some upsides, generally the wierdest thing to me is the lack of standards in plugs, frankly each european nation had their own sets but usually within the country or at least within an house youll find generally the same type

  • @15:45 Its safer? ... how unamerican...change it at once!

  • @1:00 thats all good and well bud ... but you do know we run induction cooking plates usually at 380/400V

    • Having only 120V in a kitchen is a limitation in that regard. Our 120V induction plates are only 1800 Watts, which isn’t that much if you have to boil a large pot of water. I would like to have one 240V kitchen outlet for a commercial induction plate, but I’m not sure what the electric code says about that. I know the manufacturer of a leading 240V induction plate says it is not for residential use.

  • Wow. I never cared too much for electric systems of other countries. But the possibility to have the identical plug ins for 120 and 240 Volts and typically no Residual Current Device really scares me off a little, to be honest. My father told me as a child that Residual Current Devices were invented in Austria. Actually Wikipedia states, that it got more or less common in Austria starting from 1957 when Gottfried Biegelmeier constructed those, working at Felten & Guilleaume (F&G). As far as I know, it was already pretty common in the 70ties driven by advertising, but was made compulsory here starting from 1980. So I personally grew up thinking, everybody in the world had it as well. I sometimes hate our Schuco plugs for 240 Volts with 3 Pins, that plug in really hard and even more the mighty Round 400 Volts Plugs that most countryside houses have at home for heavy equipment. But to think you might not have them around and fool proof as I'm used to ... okay, now I like my country for that fact a little more ;-)

    • I don’t know to which country you refer. In the USA, the plugs for 240V are entirely different from those for 120V. There are a few different plugs for each voltage. They differ based on the current demand. We do have circuit protection (we call them ground fault interrupters), but existing circuits don’t have to be upgraded to have them.

  • is that an apple on the top shelf next to the breaker?? lol

  • And we have 400 volts so what

  • 4:50 that house doesn't look very happy... Edit: 8:40 lol imagine if he turned that off and you just hear "aaaAAALLLEEEEEEECC!!!" Edit II: 11:26 ahh yes. The good ol' "Just because you can, does NOT mean you should." Edit III: 13:00 oh gosh, DUMBASS WARNING

  • And a year later, turns out a gas-powered dryer is less efficient than a electrically-powered one.

  • Pointless video, we don’t say we have 380V in europe just because we have 3 phase outlet.

  • 240V, WOW! EU has a 400V 3-phase circuits. Also, we have 5 wire topology (3x live wire, 1x neutral wire and 1x dedicated ground wire) since early 2000's, because its safer than 3 wire (ground wire integrated with neutral wire) in US. Also our middle range lines are 15 kV, compared to US 11kV. Murica, so genius xD

    • Distribution lines can be any of a number of different voltages in the US. It doesn’t matter to the customer.

  • I have a gas clothes dryer haha!!

  • 13:34 You know human bodies aren't a constant resistance, they change with voltage and current. Humans are weak insulators, which just means resistance changes -- close to zero with high voltage.

  • 9:22 Those 2 pins could also be coming into contact with the case. In case someone were to touch the panel's case, you wouldn't want the current going through the person -- but through a wire going straight to ground. That is, the lowest resistance path.

  • 17:32 Yes: you are correct. The Brits use 110V on building sites. Interestingly; there is a standard colour for extension leads for different voltages on site. 400V 3ph - Red, 240V 1ph, - Yellow, 110V (neutralized at 50V) - Blue. It is considered safer, as in the worst case scenario, one would only receive 50V rms to neutral.

  • Thank you, what an awesome explanation.

  • Ring mains in UK is very efficient a each outlet has ways of getting back to the distribution console mine has a main (single phase 230V) on/off for all electricity. Then 4 circuits, cooker 32A, pv 16A, lighting up stairs and down stairs lighting (ing circuit) both 6A. Then

    • Then Under Floor heating, down stairs, up stairs both ring circuit and two spares all 32A circuit breakers and a rcd for these. All non rcd are also circuit breakers. The consumer box is 14 1/2 in L 8in H X 4 1/2 in D, (Very small) the box is plastic I think under UK standards it has to be UL 94Vo, and the utility armoured cable is appropriately 3/4 in overall dia. All possable live contacts are not consumer accessible without taking them apart. We have very few electrical house fires. Due to the high currents in the US I my self would be more worried in this than getting electrocuted. Also the wiring I have seen on PLtools re us electrical wiring looks messy, difficult to trace if you have a fault. Under UK standards you steel consumer box would be called a control panel and all mains points where you are able to be touched would have a cover over them as I think UL 508 stipulates or 508A control panel std. Thanks for a good explanation of a complex and very expensive electrical system. Also the video.

  • Here in Brazil we always use 3-phase-Y transformers, even on residential neighborhoods, which give us the choice of 1-phase 127V or 2-phase 220V. But to get things weirder, in some states the standard is different, with 1-phase 220V and 2-phase 380V, even though there are no residential appliances rated for that higher voltage.

  • Sure 240v is a lot but imagine 13,000 volts of power, that’s what’s being sent to my work at a coal plant. Of course it gets stepped down in a transformer and there’s standard 240v plugs and such but there’s no lapse in power, you aren’t going to trip a 240v “house plug” by running too many appliances off it, it’ll burn up the adaptor or power strip first

    • Distribution is always done at several thousand volts.

  • You know this is really just a great example of engineers solving safety hazards through different methods. When analyzing hazards you got two scales, likelyhood of injury, and severity of injury. In america, we decided to tackle the severity part, dropping the voltage and making it less likely to kill you as easily. In britian they tackled the likelyhood part, designing better plugs, leakage current detectors, ect. In both places they felt that these considerations brough the hazard level down to a point that was acceptable and moved on with their lives, not thinking about it much more after that.

  • I always knew we have 240, I have a window air conditioner that runs on it. Aaaand we got 480v as well. *Instantly Lethal*

  • In UK 240 volt supply will still be in tolerance down to 220 volt.

  • Really though your ground and neutral should be isolated.......

    • @GH1618 Yeah it isn't code to not have them isolated, the ground is a "just in case"/safety measure for if the neutral becomes broken.

    • The handling of ground and neutral is a technical subject and the wiring must be done according to code for maximum safety.

  • HAHAHA awesome video. Shoot even my school bus has 240v hook up @ 100amp service. Thanks this video was so comical and truthful. It's so sad how nit picky other people are from other countries blabbing on about our electric system when it has no bearing on them what so ever... Why be so pissy about it?

  • YOU are weird!

  • 240V @ 200A standard .. Nice ! (We have 230 V @ 3x25A = 230V @ 75A standard for a house here in NL)

  • As a New Zealander, I will never stop defended our wall plug switches. They're convenient! Yes, some products don't come with in-built power switches, and they immediately go to stand-by! Christmas lights especially are an even better example of this. And by invoking the switches on power bricks, you're kinda admitting that they are useful to be there. Also, they're just nice. They satisfy mild OCD.

  • Thanks for engaging with this "it's only the Amps that kill you" thing. As an electrical student I always found it strange. It's the Watts that kill you, and P=V^2/R. Of course, R is going to vary depending on the path and the contact, but still, that's the truth.

  • It's 120/240V... Everyone knows that

  • Tasty useful data! Nom, nom, nom.

  • As a military helicopter pilot, I can tell you that the worst shock you can endure, is the 115 V/400 Hz on your fingers ^^